I paused, tongue sticky against the ridged roof of my mouth, admiring the recognizable figure of Myron’s ancient Athenian Discus Thrower: an image of the perfect male specimen, captured in a sporting posture of dynamic tension. … Gerhard’s taste had favored the Italian Renaissance, especially Bernini. My taste, my self-education, my training, my fixations favored this: controlled, classical, iconic excellence. Page 21, The Detour.
In The Detour, 24-year-old Ernst Vogler is compelled to see firsthand the famous Discus Thrower statue, a Roman copy of an earlier Ancient Greek marble that Hitler insists on acquiring as an artistic symbol of the Third Reich, and which the young Vogler must accompany back to Munich.
I needed to see it, too, of course. The best thing about being a research-driven historical novelist is the necessity, and the absolute passion, for seeing the places and objects that play a role in one’s reality-seeded, imagination-shaped stories.
In real life, Hitler bought the statue for five million lire and had it transported by rail north from Rome. It was on display for a year at the Glyptothek Museum in Munich. Nine years later, after the war, it was repatriated to Rome again, where it can now be seen in the National Museum, displayed alongside other classical works in a fairly plain, white-walled room (with some smudges on the walls, and a surprising lack of tourists, compared to the astoundingly crowded museums of Florence, including the Uffizi and the Galleria dell’Accademia, where Michelangelo’s David resides).

If you are fascinated by the Discus Thrower you’ll want to see it in its current setting, at the Museo Nazionale Romano (Palazzo Massimo alle Terme), near the railroad terminus, where there are many additional examples of sculpture from the 2nd century BC to the 5th century AD. (Busts of Caesars, aplenty.) There, you can marvel—as Ernst yearns to marvel— at the incredible realism and dynamism of a marble masterpiece that dates back to the first flowering of our modern ideas about the human form and its artistic representation. But let me share two additional sculpture-rich museums that wowed me even more than the Museo Nazionale Romano (or Florence’s Uffizi, for that matter).

Rape of Persephone by Bernini, in Borghese Museum
Rome’s Museo e Galleria Borghese requires some advance planning: you have to buy an advance ticket and then wait for your prebooked two-hour time allotment. As a parent traveling with two kids, one in love with art and the other prone to premature museum exhaustion, I was skeptical about this inflexible booking requirement, all to see a smaller museum set apart from the city, in a lovely park. But the intimacy of the setting and the control of crowds is part of the museum’s appeal. The other part is the collection itself. Each exquisite object (collected by the Cardinal Scipione Borghese) is set in various sumptuous corners of the 17th century villa. This is what art, owned privately –rather than exhibited in more generic, modern-day art museums– would have looked like. The Borghese has paintings (our favorites were the ones by that Renaissance rascal, Caravaggio) and ancient mosaics, but its sculptures alone are entirely worth the visit. Bernini’s Rape of Persephone, a gloriously three-dimensional piece (and here you can walk all the way around it) depicts the hand of Pluto pressing into the “skin” of Persephone’s thigh in such a lifelike manner that one can’t believe that tender thigh is really cold marble.
As impressive as the Borghese, and requiring no advanced ticketing, is Munich’s Glyptothek, a museum dedicated exclusively to ancient Greek and Roman sculpture. Built during the reign of King Ludwig I of Bavaria (a classical art aficionado), it also sits in the dark heart of Nazi history, little of it interpreted or well-marked at present, unfortunately. Evidently, Munich has always been more reticent about interpreting its Nazi past than Berlin; though there are plans for a new Munich-based “Documentation Centre for the History of National Socialism.”
Down the street is the site of the Brown House, Nazi headquarters. Across from the museum is the Konigsplatz, where the major Nazi rallies were held. This coincidental overlap of classical art and Nazi policy- and image-making is no coincidence at all, of course; Hitler advocated for art and made use of art as national symbol.
After acquiring the Discus Thrower, one of his earliest, potent symbols of the Greek legacy (a love of sport and the perfect body, to be warped into Nazi Aryan idealism), Hitler allowed the statue to be displayed at the Glyptothek for a year, after which the museum was closed, due to the war. The Glyptothek was destroyed by bombs and was not restored and reopened until 1972.
Believing, as at least some of my Italian characters do, that Italian art belongs in Italy, I felt strange visiting this Munich museum. Part of me wanted to assume that German curators could not have displayed an Italian work as beautifully and devotedly as the Italians themselves. Alas—while it says nothing at all about art policies during times of peace or war—the Glyptothek is a stunning museum, a place where the Discus Thrower would have found an aesthetically suitable home. With unadorned brickwork, high ceilings, and arched doorways, the current museum honors both ancient and modern aesthetics in its design. Statues are spaced well and natural light makes the stony rooms glow. Instead of bust after bust after bust, there is plenty of breathing space. One room is devoted to fighting warriors, taken from a Greek temple pediment. In another room, the amazing Barberini Faun, an ancient Greek original, dreams with his legs splayed and Dionysian brow slightly furrowed. Nearby, a Roman copy of a fat marble baby tugs on the neck of a squalling goose. When we visited, some intriguing modern sculptures were displayed between the ancient ones, the juxtaposition providing wry commentary.
Elsewhere on our trip in Munich, we saw other signs of an art-loving populace and had great experiences everywhere we went, including out in the public squares, where musicians played to appreciative crowds. Hitler was not the only German to hold art in high esteem and fortunately, the dark past has not cast an obliterating shadow over Germans’ love of art and music today.
P.S. An ideal art guide to peruse while planning a trip to Europe? Rick Steves’ Europe 101: History and Art for the Traveler, by Rick Steves and Gene Openshaw. Includes not just what to see but how to appreciate it, with great, clear writing about time periods, artistic innovations, masterpieces and why they matter. Our entire family loved this book and read aloud from it often while traveling.